Interview by Leigh Patterson

Helen Johannesen

For Helen Johannesen—sommelier, wine shop owner, and mother of two—morning is a moment to reset. Before the emails and errands and work begins, there’s coffee, music, and family. We visited her at home in LA to talk about the evolving shape of ritual; how she thinks about aging (wine and otherwise); and how even the smallest routines can set the tone for everything else.

August 25, 2024

Photos: Justin Chung

About Helen

For Helen Johannesen—sommelier, wine shop owner, and mother of two—morning is a moment to reset. Before the emails and errands and work begins, there’s coffee, music, and family. We visited her at home in LA to talk about the evolving shape of ritual; how she thinks about aging (wine and otherwise); and how even the smallest routines can set the tone for everything else.

LPWhat’s the first thing you do after waking up?

HJ

I kiss my babies on the cheek, snuggle them, and ask how they slept. Then I brush my teeth and kiss Alex, my husband.

LPWhat’s your go-to morning beverage? How do you make it, and how do you take it?

HJ

Every morning, I make a cappuccino with our Rocket espresso machine and whole milk. It has to be A2 milk, and right now I’m loving Alexander Dairy… it’s so delicious.

LPDo you have a favorite mug or drinking vessel? What’s the story behind it?

HJ

We have two mismatched ceramic mugs we’ve used for years. One was made by my grandmother, and the other by Alex’s best friend, Matt.

LPWhere do you usually drink your coffee or tea…and is there a best seat in the house?

HJ

With two little kids, mornings tend to start in the kitchen: it’s cozy, and as the sun comes up, it fills with light. The best seat in the house is wherever we’re together. That might sound cheesy, but it’s true. In the summer, we love sitting in the backyard as the sun stretches and the garden wakes up

LPDescribe your ideal morning—ignoring all "should-dos."

HJ

The whole family sleeps in just a bit… until 7am would be amazing. That might sound early, but it feels like such a luxury. Everyone has slept well and wakes up rested. We make cappuccinos, cut up fresh seasonal fruit, gather around the table for pancakes or bagels. There’s joy, gratitude, and a feeling of fullness before the day really begins. We just play until it’s time to get moving.

LPWhat’s the most unexpected or memorable way you’ve heard someone describe a wine? Are there any phrases you’ve been finding yourself saying a lot lately?

HJ

When I visited Christian Tschida in Austria he told me that grapes are merely a vehicle to express terroir. I feel like this summarizes what is so special about wine and winemaking to me: that it is about the place and the history of the planet that tells the real story of each wine. This summer, I keep gravitating toward wines that are super fresh, succulent, and soft. I have definitely said a few times: I love this wine, it’s soooo freshhhh.

LPLet’s talk about….aging. In a world obsessed with youth, wine offers a different lens. How has your work shaped the way you think about time, transformation, longevity?

HJ

I’ve been lucky to taste wines up to 80 years old over the past 20 years. I’ve also tasted the same producer and vineyard site across many vintages. Together, those experiences show how alive and magnificent wine can be. Aging certain wines can blow your mind; it’s like watching them turn into mythical creatures before they eventually close down.

Time is wild—it’s fast and slow. I believe in aging. I love getting older and feeling good. My family and I travel through time together, layering in moments and memories to form our own little collective. What I’ve learned from wine is that aging well starts with quality, from how the soil is treated to how the vines are cared for. It’s nature and nurture. We have to care for our bodies and minds the same way. Aging can be an epic ride.

LPWhat's a comfort or luxury you've recently allowed yourself to enjoy without irony or criticism?

HJ

Taking three weeks of vacation to travel with my family. It was lovely.

LPWhat would you pour for:

HJ

....A gorgeous Sunday late afternoon in high summer.

A gorgeous bottle of ROSE !

... A solo evening of flipping through a fancy magazine, incense burning, and listening to music with all the windows open.

A light and slightly chilled red, maybe a gamay or pinot noir.

...Tuesday night after an incredibly draining, soul-sucking day and you’re about to watch some embarrassing TV.

An Italian skin contact wine—aka orange wine—with notes of apricot and positivity.

...You’ve invited your closest friend over and, frankly, there’s really good gossip about to go down.

Champagne!!

LPWhat music has been playing lately, whether at home, in the car, on walks: can you recommend an album, artist, and/or playlist you’re into right now?

HJ

Too Short, Alice Coltrane, Amantes del Futuro, Little Simz, Arthur Russell…plus a little Vaca Lola for the kids. My husband’s always spinning records—our house is full of music. And I love cruising around LA with my Spotify playlists on.

LPWhat’s one small ritual you return to every day? Something that makes the rest of the day feel more grounded or more like…you?

HJ

I put on lotion and layer mellow essential oils: it helps set my mind and body right. I also drink my Moon Juice potions every morning and night—they really make a difference. And lots of water, always.

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